Menswear Fashion Week S/S '13 - Pt. 2
Ports 1961
Although the Ports 1961 menswear side of the brand is still
quite new, it has always been renowned for its sharp
suiting. Designs were minimalist, teamed with bold colours and eye popping geometric prints. The collection started off with clean cut tailoring in black and midnight blue before a shimmering grey and yellow pallet which flowed into colours exuding the freshness of summer - a zesty sorbet palette of limes and pink and purples. The simple yet dominant framed square and circle prints were very much to my liking - wish list 'if only' pieces. The most daring and fun look of the whole collection was perhaps the 'Bassetts Liquorice Allsort's' clashing shirt and trousers combo which looked good enough to eat. Overall the brand reinforced some of the trends this upcoming season:
suits with shorts with some transparent layering, delivering a well balanced collection. Check out the full collection here.
Missoni
Missoni once again captures the essence of a Moroccan getaway within their latest collection of thier world famous textural prints. Knits were sumptuous with a blend of inter-twined gradients in exotic organic colours - camels, greys and khakis blew in a desert air, interjected with
inoffensive greens, yellows and pinks. Tailored shorts with narrow and
streamlined - although I especially loved the weaved pattern shorts in the range it was the pairs that boasted contrasting gathered under hems that caught my eye the most. Printed suits were another pleasant
unexpected surprise on the runway. Although the collection as a whole felt a little uninspired and repetitive in parts Missoni continue to excel in bringing a clashing range of prints and pattern in the form of subtle texture variation - zig zags, stripes and diamonds - creating a play in contrasting and keeping the intrigue from beginning to end. Check out the full collection here.
Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli's presents us with 70's disco fever for S/S '13 - neon, glitter, and rock n' roll were front and center for
this collection, centred around an overload of daringly flashy tailoring - as always embracing the good life mantra translating in his designs - 'splash the cash' kind of looks. I definitely found the collection brought a fine line between flashy and tacky - the experimentation of python details, suedes and leathers were fun but failed to present an elegant or sophisticated accent. I did however like the revealing the ‘born to boogie’ slogan on t-shirts under the delicate printed blazers. There was also a great play of colours throughout with shades of navy, turquoise and teal, bringing in a perfect palette for the glimmer
of metallics shining through each look. (definitely a dominant trend this season as seen in Burberry Prorsum) Check out the full collection here.
Vivienne Westwood
The Queen of British Fashion Vivienne Westwood, showed mix bag of romance and bohemian inspired looks for for S/S '13. Starting the collection with a surprisingly safe range of tailored suits in the signature loose 'Viv' proportions - perhaps a little over used making the start of the collection feel a little lack-luster. However looks gradually became more busy and wacky and the circus ride got a little more thrilling - Un-dappled prints and hedgerow
colours brought in the summery
mood, accessorised with headpieces which evoked a
nymph feel, dishevelled layers and relaxed sweats, wraparound knits and loose draping with some cleanline tailoring in between brought in a broad spectrum of looks - only 'Viv' can get away with this and make it work successfully. It was definitely more grounded, less busy and pulled back from previous collections, yet still bringing in the historical whimsy that has always been the forefront of the brand. Check out the full collection here.
Iceberg
Iceberg's S/S '13 Collection presented simple clean-cut sophistication, relying on colour blocking and
geometric patterns to lift the whole collection. Hues of blue were accented with a warm zest of orange and a cherry on top. Silhouettes were contrasted yet streamlined and offered a very relaxed feel with slim fit trousers paired at times with chunky knits. The brand have definitely succeeded in adding a modern twist to traditionally conventional looks with every look pristine if not a little 'yawning' during moments - with some appearing to be repeat of a previous in an alternative colour. However the trending biker jacket for this season made an appearance in a refreshing summerly ice blue. Overall the colour blocked looks were very much to my liking - stand out's being the geometric print and colour blocked jumpers. The 'matchy-matchy' looks towards the end were however a little too 'bedtime' looking and lacked the vibrancy and freshness of summer. Check out the full collection here.
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