Menswear Fashion Week S/S '13 - Pt. 1




Kenzo


Kenzo's Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took us on a wild safari trip this season with a great range of soft animal prints throughout the collection without being too garish or tacky. The concept resulted in a chic diverse range of looks in an effervescent color palette of burgundy, burnt orange, soft grays and mustard yellow. The duo founders of Opening Ceremony, also looked to Kenzo's past and offered trousers and shorts which were cut with a loose voluminous fit, taking the brand back to its Japanese heritage. I especially liked the colour clashing animal print laced up sports shoes which added a playful and upbeat vibe to a collection. Check out the full collection here.



John Galliano


Now that Bill Gaytten is no longer the leader for Christian Dior's womenswear and couture, he is now able to focus soley on using his creative energy at John Galliano. Unlike past collections Gaytten has steered away from past eras and historic characters for inspiration. The collection was predominantly monochrome with accents of blue and orange with an overload of exciting modern bold prints (even down to the shoes, which I particularly loved). Jackets were oversized with slightly longer length and alike Kenzo the trend appears to be a more baggy fit to the tailoring of trousers which were almost skirt like. Overall I felt the prints were overused into one look and I would have preferred them to be an accent and applied more sparsely throughout the collection. As much as I loved all prints my favourite individual piece was actually the navy tribal transparent jumper (shown above)...but I probably wouldn't wear it with those trash bag looking shorts. Check out the full collection here.



Christian Lacroix


As the collection began the yellow and blue excited me - (worn in my IKEA WIWT post) it's a colour combo that is fast emerging as the colours of SS '13. Subtler hints of the colours were however the main domination of the collection. T-shirts and shirts were oversized with rolled up sleeves, creating an 80's throwback feel, tucked into sleek higher waisted tailored trousers. The more neutral designs in the collection were off set by the graphic prints, which have made an impression this season, however most prints were a poor effort and looked unrefined, like a scrapbook of random collaging. The top pick for me has to a jumper with one of the more successful bold graphic prints in orange, blue and black on a white backdrop (as seen above). Overall a little lacklustre - I was initially won over when seeing the blue and yellow but the energy began to drain towards the end. Check out the full collection here.



Viktor & Rolf


Viktor&Rolf's mirrored details were the stand out of the collection - reminiscent of disco balls with the wide lapels taking us back to the 1970s. Soft muted tones of peachy and exotic oranges along with sophisticated metallic pattens in the form of stripes and zigzags were wonderfully prominent. The trainers added a quirk and perfect youth to each look. Overall Viktor & Rolf manage to create a cohesive collection yet provide something to suit every mans taste. Dream wishlist item is the mirror embellished oversized jumper above. WANT! Check out the full collection here.



Rynshu


Another collection which plays on color, fit and transparency. For S/S '13 Rynshu's creates a collection which captures a perfect balance between heavy-metal hard-biker fashion and contrasts this with soft feminine floral prints. The label used a unisex cut and style to create a collection that was outfitted to both male and female models in their wears. I particularly liked the clashing of all the elements in each look - and with the heavy boots it definitely saluted Japanese street fashion. Harem-styled trousers were notable throughout - one of my favourite items of clothing - comfort and quirk is never a bad combination in my book! Check out the full collection here.

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