F/W 12 - My Top Looks from The Runway_Part 1

This week I have been looking through the F/W 12 collections from the runway. Rather than go into depth of each designer collection and make my blog become monotonous I have picked out my most favoured look from each - I guess they are my 'Look & Love' looks that I can only dream of owning unless I eventually become a rich successful entrepreneur who has more money than sense!

It's the true eccentricity and attention to detail that makes high fashion in a different league to anything seen in fast fashion although it will be interesting to see what the high street takes influences from in certain detailing and colours.

Noticeable trends for F/W 12 were influences from the 80's with 'a size too big' fit, colour blocking/gradient effects and prints flipped onto trousers with colour palettes of muted tones in navy, greys and heritage.


Diesel Black Gold
showed their first ever mens-only runway show in Milan with hues of rustic browns and metallic greys. The collection created emphasis on sophisticated tailoring but the elements of steel grey corded knits welded against rusty brown suede is what really stood out as the avant-garde design element in the collection.


Dirk Bikkembergs
showed a pared down collection that focused on the silouette and fit - the majority of the collection was slightly irksome but the above colour blocked shirt was a favourable design that I'd be happy to own.


Corneliani
take on F/W 12 season was a sombre and minimalist tone of icy grey and monochromes. The oversized tailoring was one of the better capturing luxurious and comfortable pieces in cashmere, jersey and heavy weight wools - My most favoured look was the all white knit above with off centre strap deatailing.


Calvin Klein
Collection's menswear director Italo Zucchelli continued the famed tradition of a minimalist aesthetic . For F/W 12 the success was all down to crocodile trimmed detailing which was coherent throughout the collection (a striking element that I would really like to see on the high-street even in just a print form). Zucchelli continues the FW12 trend of oversized proportions but captured it less successfully in most of the coats which gave that look of a child playing dress up in his dad's work attire.


Bottega Veneta's
Creative Director Tomas Maier took the Milanese company to a new level of colour blocking for Fall/Winter 2012. The collection was subdued with muted colors melding into another to create a sophisticated and consistent collection. Like most of the F/W12 collections, the outerwear was the key focus but less trending to other collections with more fit and structure to the body rather than the bulky 80's over-sizing. The well executed and tailored pieces consisted of shades of blues, black and browns. It would be a delight to see more of this quirky blocking which preserves praticality but adds a well needed witty twist to tailoring.


Walter Van Beirondonck's
show was quite a spectacle. For F/W 12, the Belgian oddball created a collection about duality, sharp tailoring contrasted with nightmare-inducing masks. Candy cane colour blocking was seen on everything from suits to jumpers that created the perception of a layer of skin peeling to reveal this Jekyl and Hyde/Willy Wonka on crack look with contrasting formal tweeds and tartans moulded against powerful abstract geometrics.


For Dolce & Gabbana's first collection after folding their diffusion line D&G into their main collection, the theme was all about heritage. From dapper models donning capes to a litany of intricate brocade clothes - all very Italian man living the good life during the Victorian era. I am always one to take appreciation in embellished detailing that reminisces of what historic craftmanship gave us, but I would liked to have seen a bit more colour captured into each look - perhaps a burnt green in velvet rather than the grey against black.


Sleek and streamlined silhouettes dominated Balenciaga's F/W 12 Collection. The looks take inspiration from futurism, with extensive fabric range and construction. The subtle colour blocking seen on the outerwear above, as well as the trousers, was simple yet demure - Especially like the elastic waist that is sure to create more comfort from typical tailored trousers.


Antonio Bizarro's
first showing at Fashion Rio was a mix of masculine and feminine features. A muted palette of rustic brown and black with the occational hit of African prints and accessories. I particularly liked this coat with the chained detailing and the dramatic contrasting colar which immediately creates a distinguished and confident personality to any man.


Andrea Pompilio's
collection had plenty to offer including sheep fluffed coats (which I am reserved on sticking a 'like' or 'dislike' to) as well as simple nautical striped jumpers, but all I want to have is this cheeky monkey shirt living in my wardrobe!


Alexandre Mattiussi'
brand Ami presented a collection that was a balanced mix of practical and wearable heritage coloured tweed coats, simple earthy knits and lots of organic textures used throughout. This floral print was used in moderation in the collection but seen here in the bottom half it completely reverses how it would be perceived in comparison to the typical floral shirt. It makes me wonder if the high-street will be prepared to introduce such an acquired floral print into trousers - other than Topman!


The Balmain F/W 12 Collection consisted of its trademark military influences with lots of leathers and velvet attire, this time in navy, burnt red and off whites. This majetic coat captures classic infinite elegance against the skinny deep red jeans that transforms it into a fresh and youthful look. My fashion bargain hunt begins for the fetish belted boots and deep red skinny jeans to go with my numerous blue jumpers and coats! - This is the real winner for me in terms of a consistantly appealing range of looks as a whole collection so I will be uploading all 24 looks within the next few days. (My plan is to replicate as much as I can in my tight budget...I already have my vintage doublet that would fit perfectly into this collection! *CLICK HERE*)

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